Mlabri: The Resilient Ones
The land on the road to Ban Boonyuen is scarred. The rolling hillsides previously lush with teak and fruit trees now a barren horizon of dusty, brown mounds and scattered rice cultivations. I tightly hug each turn of the narrow road in anticipation of passing cars, but there aren’t any. The land is a shadow of what it once was, a dense jungle thriving with wildlife and an intricate ecosystem that supported the ways of hunter-gatherers for at least a thousand years. It is obvious, looking at the bare terrain that there’s nothing left to hunt; there’s nothing left to gather.
Roar with the Tigers My first Chiang Mai Football Club Match
No one is breathing. The thousands gathered at the 700th Anniversary Stadium today fall silent as we’re abruptly submerged into one of those magical football moments where time freezes, but a lone ball keeps moving. It glides through the air above the neatly cropped grass of the field when suddenly, shattering the silence and stillness, it collides with the nylon weaves of the goal net and sends the crowd into a fury.
On a Cliff With Josh Morris
Let’s get something straight; Josh Morris is much more than a climber. But for him, climbing is where it all began, the catalyst that would lead to much, much more. When we first meet, I have to force him to don his sunglasses, I just couldn’t recognise him from his pictures online. He laughs, retrieves them from his bag, and the image fits. This is the founder of Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures (CMRCA), an organisation that has transformed Chiang Mai into a climbing destination sought out by adventurers from all over the world.
Far From Safe: Thailand’s Traffic as Fatal as Ever
This April here in Chiang Mai, we welcomed the year 2558 BE with the usual water-soaked Songkran festivities. For most the Thai New Year is a time for celebration, but for an ever increasing number it now marks a period of mourning. Each year hundreds die on the roads during the “seven dangerous days” of Songkran. This year was no different. At least 364 people lost their lives, making Songkran 2015 the most deadly since 2009. These figures come as a blow to the military government, who recently stepped up their efforts to reduce traffic accidents for the UN Decade of Action for Road Safety. Under the UN mandate Thailand must halve its road death rate by the year 2020. Considering the current average stands at 26,000 deaths per year, this is no short order.
Summer Rain Reading
Now that the end of summer is nearing us and the rain clouds are slowly blowing in, its about time we all stock up on a few hearty reads to see us through those wet evenings when leaving the house is off the table. Here are seven of Chiang Mai’s best bookshops, offering romantic fiction to political history and everything else in between.
The Adventures of Tom: June 2015
A chicken’s foot in my soup. A CHICKEN’S FOOT IN MY SOUP! Floating around like a wizened old witch’s claw in amongst the vegetables and lump of congealed blood. I don’t mind the blood, or most of the vegetables, but how can there be any possible benefit, conceivable excuse or imaginable additional taste sensation attached to the culinary abomination that is a severed chicken’s foot? Feet should never be floating in anything, unless they are attached to something that is splashing around in a swimming pool or bobbing about in a Jacuzzi. This is not to in any way deny that Thai food is some of the most delicious on the planet. But, a chicken’s foot…in my soup?
Recovering the Lost Vinyl of Thailand
To some the sound track of Thailand is nothing more than a proliferation of earnest but relentless acoustic covers of Wonderwall in coffee shops all over town, but plucked from the dusty corners of libraries, radio station back stock, and forgotten crates in antique shops around the country, record collectors and DJs are rediscovering a funky and freaky era of Thai music that is earning international attention.
High Hopes for Chiang Mai’s Art Scene
“In Chiang Mai, things aren’t fixed. Art is fluid here,” said Lyla Phimanrat, founder and curator of Lyla Gallery, Chiang Mai’s newest art space. Lyla debuted her gallery with AN-TI-TLE, a selection from Chiang Mai artist Mit Jai Inn. Lyla guides me through the pieces; vast, paint-splotched canvases on the floor and wall, welded steel tumbleweed like sculptures and metre-high free-standing canvas scrolls.
Thailand’s Biggest Music Export: Nakadia
This month I’m going to look slightly outside the borders of the North and look at one of the biggest success stories to come out of this country. As the electronic scene here grows, so too have local talents that are starting to see recognition on a worldwide scale.