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In 2012 the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi Resort was one of the hottest hotel properties in the world. So was its newly arrived, and hot, young chef—Portuguese Carlos Gaudencio, who had recently landed in Chiang Mai to helm the resort’s award-winning Farang Ses restaurant, after having been poached from his job as chef de cuisine at one of Thailand’s fines restaurants, Mandarin Oriental Bangkok’s Le Normandie.
Citylife remembers meeting him as he first arrived, telling us all about his vast experience in some of the world’s greatest Michelin starred kitchens, especially his many years working under and alongside Chef Guy Martin of the uber exclusive three star Michelin restaurant Le Grand Vefour in Paris.
“I focused on classic cuisine and pastries for many many years,” said Chef Carlos of his formidable experiences in multiple Michelin starred kitchens. “I started with amuse bouche, then moved to learn all about soups, before focusing on vegetables, then fish, meats and eventually sauces. I then moved to study only vegetables with revolutionary Chef Alain Passard who famously earned his third Michelin star after mastering vegetarian techniques.”
Eventually his mentor Chef Guy Martin brought him to Thailand to assist when he was acting as a consultant to the Mandarin Oriental’s Le Normandie Restaurant, which was, for many years, touted as Thailand’d, if not Asia’s, finest restaurant. Eventually Chef Carlos rose to the position of head chef of Le Normandie, making a great name for himself amongst Bangkok’s many epicures. Chef Carlos was also selected as one of the world’s best 100 chefs by the prestigious Le Grand Table du Monde.
After a few years Chef Carlos was invited to join the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi’s Farang Ses restaurant, where he worked for three years before returning to Bangkok where he has spent the past six years helming the kitchen at the exclusive Pacific City Club, renowned as the most prestigious exclusive private members club in Thailand.
Now, over a decade later, Citylife was thrilled this week to be invited to visit Allegro Restaurant, as it was recently rebirthed under the care of Chef Carlos’s top hat. Chef Carlos recognised us off the bat, which was lovely, and soon we were being served up plate after beautiful plate of classic fine Italian cuisine. Wary of ruining the spectacular plating for a second, we soon dug into each dish with gusto while listening to the chef tell us about his vision for this restaurant.
“The Dhara Dhevi Resort is slowly coming back, and areas are being opened up and rapidly filled by really interesting new outlets and businesses,” said Chef Carlos. “One thing I am most excited about, however, is all the positive changes I have now experienced in the Chiang Mai food and beverage industry. The farm products have risen dramatically in quality and more and more variety of produce are readily available. Chiang Mai’s diners, with another ten years of options and experiences, are also very knowledgable, which makes it interesting and fun to work with. I am hoping to focus on pure Italian cuisine, utilising the best of local produce while drawing upon my vast experience in cooking fine French and Italian cuisines in the world’s greatest kitchens.”
“I think that Chiang Mai diners are going to really want super classical dishes as this is not readily available here. Many local chefs add creative flairs and twists, which is great, but I can really introduce them to the finest of classic European cuisine.”
The menu is still a work in progress, but we tried a good six to eight dishes and can’t wait to get to sample more. His pizzas are Neapolitan classics, with a tender soft dough base firming up to a crisp and light crust. Ingredients are naturally top-of the line, with imported products such as burrata and premier Parma ham, culatello. Meat dishes include the timeless Tournedos Rossini, with tender and tasty filet mignon topped with a slice of aromatic foie gras. And let’s not forget that Chef Carlos is a saucier—this sorcerer knows his sauces—and the gentle scents of the perfectly balanced truffle sauce completes this dish.
Next, we bite into the crisp flavourful skin of the slowly confit duck slathered with a very merry berry sauce before dipping our spoons into the foamy Parmesan broth that is the classic porcini truffle soup. Our next bite is like tasting a cloud swimming in the sea, as the snow fish is tenderly cooked and served on a bed of umami-punched fresh cherry tomato caprese along with jaunty bulbs of capers. The mushroom risotto was also perfectly al dente and infused with the fungus goodness of mushroom flavourings and tastes.
“Most of these dishes I serve are already known. These are not surprising or new dishes. They are classics,” insist Chef Carlos. “But what Allegro Restaurant will serve is an elevation of these dishes the likes which you simply can’t find anywhere here.”
Allegro Restaurant is currently in its REinfancy. It is slowly building up its deli section, soon to be providing superb quality cold cuts, cheeses, sauces and other specialty items. It already has a gelato bar, which will be expanded upon in the coming months. And the wine selection has been carefully curated, and though still limited in labels, offer excellent pairings with Chef Carlos’ many dishes.
Allegro Italian Restaurant
Open daily 11 am. – 10 pm.
Tel. 065 028 3666
GPS: https://maps.app.goo.gl/MgvPqn9aGTztD8tE8
